Category: Seaboard News Gaelic archive

Guest article by Anne Barclay of Golspie. Mòran taing, Anne!

A book and a film: East Sutherland Gaelic Heritage Night featured “Mar a Chunnaic Mise: Nancy Dorian is a’ Ghaidhlig “ – a documentary following linguist Nancy Dorian, who studied the last of the East Sutherland Gaelic speakers. What an interesting evening it turned out to be!

Aileen Ogilvie introduced Professor Neil Simco from the University of the Highlands and Islands, Dornoch Campus, who explained his own interest in the Gaelic language. He is an Englishman who studied Gaelic at Sabhal Mor Ostaig and is fluent in the language albeit with an English accent for which he apologised. He attained his fluency by using the Gaelic language at every opportunity. He told us how there is research going on at present into the crisis within the Gaelic language and the state of Gaelic in the Western Isles. At UHI, they try to make the student experience bilingual, corporate communication is also bilingual, and staff have the opportunity to learn Gaelic. Prof Simco switched easily from Gaelic to English right throughout.

Aileen Ogilvie, herself a Gaelic speaker, introduced the film which had been made some time ago, probably in the 1980’s, and featured Nancy Dorian, a Professor of Linguistics from the eastern seaboard of America who studied the last of the East Sutherland Gaelic speakers. East Sutherland Gaelic was spoken mainly in the fishing communities pf Brora, Golspie and Embo. Of the three villages only Embo was a totally fishing village. Brora’s fishing community was confined to Lower Brora beside the mouth of the river, while in Golspie it was the West End of the village. Gaelic was not spoken in the rest of Brora nor in the East End of Golspie. In the film we saw Nancy Dorian at work in her study in America, checking her pronunciation of Gaelic words over the telephone with the friends she had made in East Sutherland. She wanted to have the authentic East Sutherland accent and spelling of words and this she certainly achieved.

Her friendship with the last Gaelic speakers from East Sutherland lasted throughout their lives and the film is testament to the work she did over many years. Nancy Dorian also wrote a book called “The Tyranny of the Tide” where she documented the oral history of the fishing in East Sutherland, the stories of the people, the local fishing, the role of women in the family, religion, their beliefs and practices. This she wrote down largely in the words of the people she spoke to and lived among from time to time over many years.

There are numerous examples in the book where the stories are told by the people. One woman talking about her lack of education is quoted here. “I used to get rows Nancy, from the teachers….They thought I should be in school….my mother was very keen to send me when she could….sometimes she would keep my eldest brother off school but it was mostly me. Because I was handier in the house than a boy anyway.” When describing the decision of where to fish on any day, and she is talking about line fishing, it was supposed to be by common agreement, but the young men always deferred to the older men. “ If the older man says, ‘We’ll go here’ they never said yes or no, whether they thought otherwise or not…..they never mentioned it. They always gave “an t-urram do’n aois “(Honour to age).

Nancy Dorian had the ability to insert Gaelic words, still in use when she made her oral history recordings, to great effect throughout the book. “The Tyranny of the Tide” is a book I have read several times in the years I have spent in Golspie and I am always struck by the similarities there are to the Seaboard fishing villages. As in the Seaboard Gaelic has died out but words and phrases remain to remind us of our heritage.

This is a snatch of an old song that Nancy Dorian recorded from the Sutherland family she spent much time with in the 1970’s.

“S iomadh caileag bhoidheach

Eadar Dornach ’s a’ bhail’ seo

‘A do chuuir i treimh brog air

Bu bhoidhich’ na mo chaileagas. “

There’s many a bonny lass Between Dornoch and this village:

There didn’t step a foot (A girl) bonnier than my lass.

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Na h-uain a’s t-earrach, le Runrig

Seachdain sa chaidh bha mi aig Eden Court gus an fhiolm The Last Dance fhaicinn, clàradh den chuirm-chiùil mu dheireadh a ghabh Runrig, ann an 2018 fo sgàil Caisteal Shruighlea. Tachartas làn faireachdainn a bh’ ann, leis gun robh fios againn uile mar-thà aig àm a’ chonsairt nach biodh iad a’ dèanamh turas eile no fiù’s cuirm-chiùil eile tuilleadh. Agus a-nis, a’ coimhead ‘s a’ cluinntinn a-rithist, thuig sinn gu h-obann is gu soilleir gun robh fios mar-thà aig an àm sin aig Bruce Guthro, prìomh sheinneadair den chòmhlan, fios nach robh againne idir, gun robh aillse air. Cha do sheall e sin, agus bha a ghuth cho brèagha ‘s cho làidir ’s a bha e riamh. Ach san eadar-àm chaochail e, ann an 2023, gun dùil againn ris, is call mòr a bha sin dhan choimearsnachd Riggie, gun ghuth air a theaghlach ‘s air a charaidean sa chòmhlan. Bha sinn uile a’ coimhead le sùilean is cluasan ùra, agus cha mhòr nach robh duine sam bith san taigh-dhealbh gun deur no dhà. Bha ar gaisgich bàsmhor.

Ach chan ann mar sin a chunnaic Ruairidh is Calum Dòmhnallach an saoghal ann an 1978, is iad dìreach air aon de na ciad òrain Ghàidhlig aca a sgrìobhadh – Na h-uain a’s t-earrach. Agus ‘s ann mun òran seo a tha mi airson bruidhinn am mìos seo. Bha an còmhlan dìreach a’ tòiseachadh ri bhith na b’ ainmeile, is a’ cleachdadh Gàidhlig na bu trice, rud nach robh cumanta airson chòmhlan-ciùil òga fhathast, agus a bha gu math connspaideach. Ach bha misneachd na h-òige aca, is iad a’ faireachdainn òg is làidir, deiseil is deònach an saoghal atharrachadh – agus taic a chumail ri Gàidhlig.

Dè math bhith suidhe fàs nas aosd
‘S làithean earraich a’ falbh bhuainn…

Chuir sinn ar cànan na’r chridhe.. ‘s le chèile togaidh sinn fonn.

Tha na sèistean làn iomraidhean air dè cho òg ‘s a tha iad (agus ‘s iad a bha!):

Òg tha sinn òg, òg na’r cridhe
Beatha na’r coinneamh, Coinneal na’r làimh
‘S ann againn tha neart, Is ann againn tha ‘n cothrom
Na’r cridhe gu bràth
Tha sinn òg, òg.

Agus a-nis tha na h-uain a’s t-earrach a’ nochdadh, agus an turas seo tha na Dòmhnallaich a’ gairm na Gàidheil òga eile – a’ cleachdadh “sibh” seach “sinn”:

Tha sibh mar na h-uain a’s t-earrach
Siubhal ‘s a leum, tapaidh, saor
Ach an fhaca sibh na caoraich aosd’
Nì aon dhiubh gluasad ‘s leanaidh ‘n corr.

Cha ann mu chaoraich a tha iad a bruidhinn.

Tha fios aca gum bi daoine a’ fàs sean, agus nach bi cùisean cho furasda an uair sin, ach sin dìreach carson a dh’fheumas na h-òganaich barrachd a dhèanamh cho fad ’s a bhios iad òg:

Nuair bhios na bliadhnaichean ‘dol bhuaibh
Làithean doirbh, làithean dorch’
Cùm do choinneal an àrd is laiste
‘S coisich an saoghal le cridhe òg.

Agus ‘s e sin a rinn Runrig, gun teagamh sam bith. Thug iad a’ Ghàidhlig ‘s an cultar Gàidhealach is Albannach thairis bhon niche folk gu rock, bhon talla-bhaile bheag gu lannan-cluiche mòra, leis an sgioba-ciùil teann is tàlantach a bh’ anns a’ chòmhlan. Chùm iad an coinneal ud an àrd fad an cùrsa-beatha, is bhrosnaich iad luchd-ciùil òg eile ar cànan ‘s ar cultar a thoirt air adhart ann an saoghal caochlaideach, ceòl ùr a chruthachadh leotha, agus pròiseactan ùra a stèidheachadh, mar iomairt nam Fèisean, no duaisean Na Trads, no tachartasan mar Bhlas.  Is iomadh seinneadair is còmhlan-ciùil cliùteach san latha an-diugh, mar Julie Fowlis, no Skipinnish, no Niteworks, a tha toilichte innse mar a bha Runrig na bhuaidh mhòr orra.

Thàinig Na h-uain a’s t-earrach a-mach air an album Highland Connection ann an 1979 agus bha e ri chluinntinn aig cuirmean-ciùil aig an àm sin. Seo an clàradh:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KdT9m5gBiY

Leis an ùine dh’atharraich e bho òran air a sheinn gu pìos ionnsramaideach drùidhteach airson giotàr is drumaichean, mar an seo beò ann an 2015:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQ1h-YQgFzQ

‘S dòcha gun robh fios aca nach biodh “tha sinn òg, òg” cho freagarrach tuilleadh!

Ach 40 bliadhna air adhart on a sgrìobh iad an t-òran, bha an aon spiorad làidir, misneachail ri fhaicinn ‘s ri chluinntinn – is ri fhaireachdainn – aig a’ chuirm-chiùil mu dheireadh, àrd is soilleir. Thàinig na “làithean dorch’ “, gu dearbh, ach tha na coinnlean ud a’ lasadh fhathast, is na mìltean dhiubh. 

Agus tha sinn an dùil ‘s an dòchas gum bi na h-uain agus an t-earrach againn a-rithist cuideachd a dh’aithghearr!

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The lambs in springtime, by Runrig

Last week I went to Eden Court to see the film The Last Dance, a recording of Runrig’s last concert in the shadow of Stirling Castle in 2018. It was an emotional event, as we all knew already at the time of the concert that Runrig wouldn’t be doing another tour or even a concert any more. And now, watching and listening again, we suddenly and clearly were aware that the lead singer, Bruce Guthro, unlike us already knew at that time that he had cancer. He didn’t show it – his voice was as beautiful and powerful as ever. But he died in 2023, unexpectedly for us, a huge loss to the Riggie community, not to mention to his family and his bandmates. So we were all watching the film with new eyes and ears, and there was hardly anyone in the cinema who didn’t shed a tear or two. Our heroes were mortal.

But that’s not how Rory and Calum Macdonald saw the world back in 1978, when they wrote one of their first Gaelic songs – Na h-uain a’s t-earrach, The lambs in springtime. And that’s the song I’m going to look at this month. The band were just beginning to be better known, and singing in Gaelic more often, something that wasn’t common at the time for young bands, and was quite controversial. But they had the confidence of youth and felt young and strong, ready and keen to change the world – and to support Gaelic.

What’s the point in sitting, growing older

The days of springtime disappearing from us

We put our language in our hearts

We found a song and sung it

The chorus is full of references to how young they are (and they were!)

Young, we are young, young in our hearts

Life ahead of us, a candle in our hands

We have the enthusiasm, we have the opportunity

In your attitude forever stay young, stay young

And now the young lambs of spring of the title appear, and this time the Macdonalds are summoning other young Gaels to the standard – using “you” instead of “we”.

You are like the lambs in springtime

Running around, jumping and carefree

But have you ever noticed the older sheep

When one moves they all follow

It’s not sheep they’re talking about.

They know of course that people grow old, that things won’t be so easy then, but that’s precisely why young people have to do more as long as they are young:

And when the years start departing from you

The difficult days, the darker days

Keep your candle aloft and lit

Walk this world with a young heart

And that’s what Runrig did, no doubt about it. They kept that candle aloft throughout their musical career, and inspired other young musicians to carry our language and culture forward in a changing world, creating new music with them, and founding new projects like the Fèisean, the Na Trads awards, or the Blas Festival events. And there are countless celebrated singers and bands today, like Julie Fowlis, Skipinnish, or Niteworks, who are happy to tell us what a major influence Runrig has had on them.

The song Na h-uain a’s t-earrach / Lambs in springtime came out on the album Highland Connection in 1979, and was played at concerts then – here’s  the recording: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KdT9m5gBiY

In the course of time it changed from a vocal to an impressive instrumental piece for guitar and drums, as heard here live in 2015: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQ1h-YQgFzQ

They probably realised that singing “we’re young, young” wasn’t quite so appropriate by that point!

But 40 years on from when they wrote the song, the same strong, confident spirit could be seen and heard – and felt – at that last concert, loud and clear.  The “darker days” did indeed come, but those candles are still burning bright, and in their thousands.

And we live in hope that the the lambs and the spring will be back with us again soon too!

Original lyrics and translation here: https://runrig.rocks/lyrics/the%20highland%20connection.html  

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Bana-ghaisgeach nan cuantan, Grace Darling

O chionn 185 bliadhna air an 7 latha den t-Sultain shàbhail Grace Darling agus a h-athair naoinear às an long-bhriste HMS Forfarshire. Mar bhana-ghaisgeach na mara tha e iomchaidh gum bi cuimhne againn oirre nar coimhearsnachd chladaich air an ceann-là seo.

Rugadh Grace ann an 1815 ann an Northumberland, mar nighean neach-taigh-sholais, agus ann an 1838 bha Grace a’ fuireach còmla ris agus a màthair anns an taigh-solais Eilean Longstone, air fear de na h-Eileanan Farne. Bha Grace 22 aig an àm sin agus a’ cuideachadh le obair an taighe agus an taigh-sholais, nam measg le cumail faire.

Sna h-uairean tràtha den 7 den t-Sultain, a bha gu sònraichte stoirmeil, chunnaic Grace briseadh-luing eagalach bho uinneag an t-seòmair-chadail aice – bhuail bàta-smùide eilean ìosal creagach, Big Harcar Rock, mu mhìle air falbh, agus bhris na dhà leth. Thachair sin mu 4 uairean sa mhadainn. Ruith i dhan phrosbaig feuch am faiceadh i duine beò sam bith, ach bha e fathast ro dhorcha, ach an ceann ùine dh’aithnich iad daoine air a chreig.  Cho-dhùin Mgr Darling agus Grace gun iomraicheadh iad an sin, a dh’aindeoin staid uabhasach na sìde ‘s na mara, gus feuchainn ri na truaghanan a shàbhaladh. Bha fios aca gum biodh sin na bu luaithe na feitheamh air a’ bhàta-teasairginn à Seahouses (e fhèin bàta-ràmh), nach toisicheadh idir, ‘s dòcha, leis an t-sìde ‘s an astar na bu mhotha.

Às dèidh saothrach anabarraich, chaidh aca air an copal aca a stiùreadh dhan àite, far an deach Mgr Darling suas air a’ chreig a’ fàgail Grace na h-aonar a’ cumail am bàta faisg air làimh sa mhuir fhiadhaich ‘s san stoirm fheargach. Lorg iad naoinear luchd-teasairginn, cus rim toirt dhan taigh-sholais ann an aon bhaidse. Dh’iomair iad a’ chiad fheadhainn air ais – boireannach, fear air a ghoirteachadh, agus triùir den chriutha, agus an uair sin dh’iomair Mgr Darling agus an criutha air ais airson chàich. Dh’fhuirich Grace san taigh-sholais gus coimheadh às dèidh an fhir lèonta agus a’ bhoireannaich, a chaill dithis cloinne san tubaist. Ro 9 uair sa mhadainn bha a h-uile naoinear sàbhailte ann an Longstone.

Bha an HMS Forfarshire air an t-slighe bho Hull gu Dùn Dèagh le 62 daoine air bòrd. Bha na goileadairean air am fàilneachadh agus mar sin bha an t-einnsean gun fheum, agus cha robh aig a’ chaiptean ach nàdar de sheòl ri chleachdadh san stoirm. Shaoil e am mearachd gur e taigh-solais Inner Farne a bh’ anns an Longstone agus dhrioft am bàta-smùide air an eilean chreagach neo-fhaicsinneach. Bhrìs an long na dà leth, agus ron ghlasadh an latha cha mhòr nach robh e air a dhol fodha.  Chaidh aig naoinear eile air teicheadh anns a’ bhata-teasairginn aig an long fhèin agus chaidh an sàbhaladh le long eile san dol seachad. Chaidh na cuirp-chloinne a lorg cuideachd leis a’ bhàta-teasairginn à Seahouses (is bràthair Grace air aon de na ràimh). B’ feudar dhan bhàta sin cuideachd feitheamh fad 3 làithean aig taigh-solais Longstone air sgàth na sìde.

Nuair a nochd an naidheachd, chaidh Grace na bana-ghaisgeach chliùiteach air feadh na dùthcha. Fhuair i urraman, duaisean (nam measg £50 bho Bhanrìgh Bhictoria!), agus fiù ‘s tairgsean-pòsaidh. Chaidh bàrdachd is òrain a sgrìobhadh mu a deidhinn agus chaidh iomadh portraid a pheantadh. Gu mi-fhortamach ge-tà, cha robh mòran ùine air fhagail dhi gus tlachd a ghabhail na cliù (ma ghabh idir) – chaochail i leis a’ chaitheamh dìreach 4 bliadhna às dèidh sin. Thàinig na ceudan dhan tiodhlacadh ann am Bamburgh, far a bheil carragh-chuimhne brèagha san chladh aig eaglais eachdraidheil Naomh Aodhan, agus tha an iomhaigh-chloiche shnaithte àlainn a bha air an tuama aice air a gleidheadh am broinn na h-eaglais. Bha cothrom agam tadhal orra nuair a bha mi ann an Northumberland an-uiridh.  Tha taigh-tasgaidh RNLI Grace Darling ann am Bamburgh cuideachd. https://rnli.org/find-my-nearest/museums/grace-darling-in-10-objects

Tha bana-ghaisgeach iomraidh againne ann am Machair Rois cuideachd – Oighrig an Dà Raimh; cuimhnichean, còmhla ri dìleab shònraichte Grace, gun do chluich na boireannaich cuideachd riamh am pàirt ann am dràma nan cuantan.

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Maritime heroine, Grace Darling

On 7  September it will be 185 years since Grace Darling and her father saved the lives of nine souls from the wrecked HMS Forfarshire. As a maritime heroine, it’s fitting for our coastal community to remember her on this anniversary.

Grace was born in 1815 in Northumberland, daughter of a lighthouse-keeper, and in 1899 Grace and her mother were living with him in Longstone Island lighthouse, one on of the Farne Islands. Grace was 22 then, and helping with household and lighthouse duties, including taking turns at watch.

In the exceptionally stormy night to 7 September Grace saw from her bedroom window a terrible wreck happening – a steamship hit a low rocky island, Big Harcar Rock, about a mile away, and broke in two. This happened about 4am. She ran to the lighthouse telescope to see if she could spot survivors but it was still too dark, but eventually they could make out some people on the rock. Mr Darling and Grace decided to row there, despite the dreadful conditions, and try to rescue them – they knew that would be quicker than waiting for the lifeboat (also a rowing boat) from more distant Seahouses, which might not even have launched due to the weather conditions and distance.

With immense effort, the two of them managed to get their coble to the scene, Grace on her own holding the boat steady in the raging waters and storm while her father went onto the rock. They discovered nine survivors, too many for one trip back to the lighthouse. They brought back the first batch, a woman, an injured man, and three crewmen to Longstone, and then Mr Darling and the crewmen rowed back to get the remaining survivors while Grace and her mother tended the injured man and the woman, whose two children had been lost. By 9am all nine were safely at the lighthouse.

The ship was the HMS Forfarshire, en route from Hull to Dundee with 62 people on board. The ship’s boilers had failed, so the engine was useless,  and the captain only had a makeshift sail to use in the storm. He mistook the Longstone light for the Inner Farne one, and drifted onto the unseen rocky island. The ship broke in two, and by morning was almost completely sunk.  Nine other people had managed to board the ship’s lifeboat and were later picked up by a passing ship – all others were lost. The two drowned children’s bodies were also picked up later by the Seahouses lifeboat (with Grace’s brother on one of the oars). That lifeboat also had to shelter at the lighthouse for 3 days because of the weather.

Once the news broke, Grace was celebrated as a heroine throughout the land. She received honours, rewards (including £50 from Queen Victoria!), and even proposals of marriage.  Poems and songs were written about her and her portrait was freqently painted. Sadly, however, she didn’t live long to enjoy the admiration (if indeed she did) – she died of tuberculosis only four years later. Crowds turned out for her funeral in Bamburgh, where she has an ornate monument in the churchyard of historic St  Aidan’s Church, and the beautiful recumbent carving from her tomb is now preserved inside the church. I was able to visit them while in Northumberland last year.  There is also a RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh : https://rnli.org/find-my-nearest/museums/grace-darling-in-10-objects

On the Seaboard we also have our rowing heroine – Effie of the Two Oars; a reminder, along with Grace’s remarkable legacy, that women too have always played their part in the drama of the seas.

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“Cobbler” Shùbhan-làir agus Rùbraib / Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

(Taing dhan Naidheachd Againne, iris den Chomunn Ghàidhealach Ameireaganach airson cead an reasabaidh seo a chleachdadh, agus gu h-àraidh do Janice Chan airson a cho-roinneadh!)

Chan eil rud sam bith nas fheàrr na blas sùbhan-làir agus rùbraib le chèile. Gabh tlachd air seo nuair a tha e caran blàth, le reòiteag!

Grìtheidean airson an lìonaidh-mheasan

6 cupan rùbraib, air a ghearradh ann am pìosan garbh
3 cupan sùbhan-làir, slisnichte
1 1/4 cupan siùcair
3 spàintean-bhùird min-fhlùir
1 1/2 spàintean-tì caineil
1 1/2 spàintean-tì rùsg orainseir, sgrìobte gu mìn

Grìtheidean airson aʼ mhullaich

1 1/3 cupan min-fhlùir
3 spàintean-bhùird min-choirce
3 spàintean-bhùird siùcair
1 1/2 spàintean-tì pùdair-fuine
1 1/2 spàintean-tì sòda-fuine
1/4 spàin-tì salainn
3 spàinteain-bhùird ime, fionnaraichte
1 chupa bainne (no blàthach)

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Stiùiridhean
1. Teasaich an àmhainn gu 400°F.
2. Ann am bobhla mòr, measgaich le chèile na grìtheidean tioram airson aʼ mheasgachadh de mheasan (siùcar, min-fhlùir, caineal). Cuir an rùbrab, na sùbhan-làir agus an rùsg orainseir anns aʼ bhobhla agus cuir mun cuairt iad gu socair gus am bi na measan còmhdaichte gu math. Sgaoil am measgachadh gu cunbhalach air soitheach-fuine meud 13 òirlich x 9 òirlich. Bruich seo ann an àmhainn aig 400°F fad 10 mionaidean. Cuir seo an dàrna taobh.
3. Ann am bobhla mòr, measgaich le chèile grìtheidean airson aʼ mhullaich thioraim (min-fhlùir, min-choirce, siùcar, pùdar-fuine, sòda-fuine agus salann). Cleachd do
chorragan no dà sgian gus an t‑ìm a mheasgachadh a‑steach gus am bi e coltach ri peasairean beaga.
4. Cuir am bainne ris (no am blàthach) agus cuir mun cuairt e gus am bi an taois maoth. Leag le spàintean-bhùird den taois tuiteam air aʼ mheasgachadh de mheasan teth.
Bruich seo ann an àmhainn aig 400°F fad 25 mionaidean no gus an èirich e agus tha e donn-òir.
5. Leig leis fuarachadh. Bidh na measan nas tighe nuair a tha e nas fhionnaire.

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Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

(Thanks to Janice Chan and An Naidheachd Againne, magazine of the An Comunn Gàidhealach Ameireaganach, for permission to use this.)

Thereʼs nothing better than the taste of strawberries and rhubarb together. Enjoy this when itʼs a bit warm, with ice cream!

Ingredients for Filling

6 cups coarsely chopped rhubarb
3 cups sliced strawberries
1 1/4 cup sugar
3 tbsp flour
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp orange zest

Ingredients for Topping

1 1/3 cup flour3 tbsp rolled oats
3 tbsp sugar
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp chilled butter
1 cup milk (or buttermilk)

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. In a large bowl, combine dry filling ingredients (sugar, flour, cinnamon). Add the rhubarb, strawberries and orange zest, and toss well. Spread the mixture in a 13″ x 9″ baking dish and bake in a 400°F (c. 200°C) oven for 10 minutes and then put aside.
3. In a large bowl, combine flour, oats, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Using fingers or two knives, cut in butter until mixture resembles small peas.
4. Stir in the milk or buttermilk with a fork just until a soft dough forms. Drop by
tablespoons on top of the hot fruit filling. Bake in a 400°F (c. 200°C) oven for 25 minutes or until the topping is golden brown and has risen.
5. Allow to cool before serving. The filling will firm up when cool.

Cup measurements: If you don’t have one of these bunches of scoops for measuring in American cups, just use any container that holds 250 ml liquid instead (= 1 cup), for wet and dry ingredients. There’s also a conversion tool here: https://www.thecalculatorsite.com/cooking/cups-ml.php

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Gealach-lus

Tha aon lus, gu ìre mhòr fiadhain, as toil leam gu sònraichte faicinn sa ghàrradh aig an àm seo den bhliadhna, le a fhlùraichean purpaidh cùbhraidh ‘s a dhuilleagan mòra biorach – an gealach-lus, no “honesty” sa Bheurla. Chanadh cuid luibheanach ris, ach dhomsa ‘s e lus brèagha a th’ ann, a bheir dath dhan ghàrradh tràth sa bhliadhna, agus ùidh a bharrachd as t-fhoghar ‘s sa gheamhradh leis na buinn-airgid àlainn air.

‘S ann à ceann a deas na Roinn Eòrpa a tha e bho thùs, agus is cinnteach gun tàinig e do Bhreatainn ro dheireadh an 16mh linn, an toiseach mar fhlùr-gàrraidh, ach san eadar-àm tha e ri fhaicinn air feadh na dùthcha far a bheil an aimsir measarra – nochdaidh e ann am faichean, ri taobh an rathaid, agus anns na gàrraidhean againn. Ach na gabh dragh mura h-eil thu ga iarraidh an sin – tha e glè fhurasta an lus còmla ris a fhreumhan a tharraing a-mach. Cha dèan mise sin ach nuair a bhios cus ann, no nuair a bhios e a’ fàs san àite cheàrr, is mi cho measail air.

Nuair a tha thu a’ coimhead air, cha bhiodh tu a’ saoilsinn gur ann dhan teaghlach brassica a bhuineas e, còmhla ri càl, snèap, raip no mustard, ach seall gu dlùth agus tha na fluraichean den aon chruth. A rèir coltais faodaidh tu seòrsa mustaird a dhèanamh às na sìl, agus na duilleagan òga (mus nochd na fluraichean) a chleachdadh ann an sailead.

Ach ‘s ann airson rèiteachadh fhlùraichean a cleachdar iad mar as trice. Fhad’s a tha na flùraichean air an lus fhathast chì thu na siliques a’ fàs – is iad seo seòrsa sligich cruinne còmhnaird anns a bheil meamran leis na sìl. As t-earrach tha iad fhathast beag agus an aon dath ris na duilleagan agus mar sin cha bhi thu cho mothachail orra, ach tha na sìl rim faicinn mar-thà tron t-sligeach thrìd-dhealrach – ‘s ann air an adhbhar sin (mas fhìor) a fhuair an lus an t-ainm honesty, fìrinnteachd, is e a sealltainn a shìl gu firinneach. As t-fhoghar, nuair a tha na sligeachan tioram is na sìl deiseil ri sgaoileadh, thuitidh am plaosg a-muigh air falbh agus às a dhèidh na sìl bhon mheamran, agus chan eil ach am meamran fhèin air fhàgail, geal-airgid agus cho tana ri pàipear-sìoda. Tha iadsan gu h-iongantach buan, agus gu tric tha cuid air fhàgail gus an earrach. Dìreach ann an gruaim a’ gheamhraidh tha iad feumail is brèagha mar sgeadachadh.

‘S e lunaria annua a th’ air an lus sa Laideann, bho luna, gealach, agus chì thu carson. Am measg nan ainmean Beurla tha cuideachd moonpennies, agus siniomradh air a’ choltas eile a th’ orra – ri buinn-airgid. Cluinnidh tu silver dollars orra cuideachd. Mar sin, le buaidh mhathasach na gealaich, geall soirbheachaidh nam bonn-airgid, agus a chliù firinnteachd, cò air talamh nach iarradh na lusan àlainn seo na ghàrradh? ‘S dòcha gum bi sibhse a’ coimhead orra le sùilean ùra a-nis. Tha mi an dòchas gum bi, co-dhiù!

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Honesty

There’s one plant, more or less wild, which I particularly like to see in the garden at this time of year, with its fragrant purple flowers and its large pointed leaves – honesty (“moon-plant” in Gaelic). Some would call it a weed, but to me it’s a lovely plant which brings colour to the garden early in the year, and adds interest in autumn and winter with its beautiful silver “coins”.

It actually comes from southern Europe but has been in Britain since at least the end of the 16th century, first as a garden flower, and in the meantime all over the countryside, wherever the climate is moderate – it shows up in meadows, at the roadside and in our gardens. But don’t worry if you don’t want it there – it’s very easy to pull out, roots and all. Being so fond of it myself, I would only be doing that where there was too much of it, or it was in the wrong place.

When you look at it you wouldn’t automatically think that it’s in the brassica family, along with cabbage, turnip, rape or mustard, but look more closely at the flowers and you’ll see they’re the same form. Apparently you can make a kind of mustard out of the seeds, and use the young leaves (before the flowers come) in salad.

But it’s for flower arrangements that they’re most often used. While the flowers are still on the plant, you see the siliques appearing – they’re a kind of round, flat casing covering a membrane with the seeds attached inside it. In spring they’re still small and the same colour as the leaves, so you don’t notice them, but the seeds are already visible through the translucent casing – that’s allegedly the reason they’re called honesty, as they display their seeds so “truthfully”. In the autumn, when the siliques are dry and the seeds are ripe for spreading, the outer pod falls off, followed by the seeds dropping from the membrane, leaving the membrane itself in the round silique “frame”, silver-white and as thin as tissue-paper. These are amazingly long-lasting, and many often hang on until the spring. They’re especially useful and attractive as decoration in the gloom of winter.

The Latin name is lunaria annua, from luna, the moon, and you can see why. Among the many English names the term “moonpennies” also refers to another similarity – to silver coins.  You also hear the name “silver dollars”.  So, with the benign influence of the moon, the promise of prosperity of the coins, and the reputation for truthfulness, who wouldn’t want these beautiful plants in their garden? Maybe you’ll look at them with fresh eyes now – I hope so, anyway!

Sgrìobh mi an seo mar-thà mu Bheinn Uais agus Chnoc Fhaoighris, agus an turas seo tha mi airson sùil a thoirt air cnoc ionadail eile as toil leam, Cnoc Fearralaidh. ‘S e feart-tìre comharraichte a th’ ann a’ coimhead bho gach taobh, ach gu sònraichte bhon rathad eadar Inbhir Pheofharain agus Srath Pheofhair, agus ‘s e cuairt ghoirid agus cuimseach furasda a th’ ann bhon àite-parcaidh bheag aige fhèin (ri ruigsinn bho thaobh Loch Ùsaidh). Tha cuairtean nas fhada ‘s nas dùbhlanaiche ann cuideachd, bho Srath Pheofhair no slighe Cnuic Mhòir ‘s Druim a’ Chait – molaidhean air www.walkhighlands.co.uk .

‘S e druim fada, cas a th’ ann, sìnte bhon ear chun an iar, mu 200m a dh’àirde, le seallaidhean soilleir  anns gach àird – beanntan Srath Chonain, Beinn Uais, Linne Chrombaidh is Cnoc Neig, gu Creag Phàdraig taobh Inbhir Nis agus deas thairis air Loch Ùsaidh gu Moreibh is chun a’ Mhonaidh Ruaidh. Chithear Inbhir Pheofharain chun an ear agus Caisteal Leòid is Srath Pheofhair chun an iar. A bharrachd air a bhith fradharcach, bha cudromachd ro-innleachdail aige sna linntean a dh’fhalbh, oir tha làrach dùin mhòir ghlainnaichte bho Linn an Iarainn air a mhullach chòmhnard. Chìtheadh na naimhdean tighinn gun teagamh sam bith, agus bhiodh e doirbh dhaibh ionnsaigh a thoirt air an dùn ri bruthach is e cho cas air cha mhòr gach taobh.

Tha e coltach gun tàinig an t-ainm Cnoc Fearralaidh (no Farralaidh no Fearghalaidh) bho far-eileach, “àite àrd nan clachan”, a’ dèanamh iomradh air an dùn.

Tharraing an dùn arc-eòlaichean thar nan linntean, is e an innleadair John Williams am fear a bu tràithe dhiubh sna 1770an. Tha na trì truinnsichean domhainn aige rim faicinn fhathast a’ dol thairis air làrach an dùin, tro na gàrraidhean, mar a chithear san adhar-dhealbh aig Andy Hickie,  leasaichte le photogrammetry gus na feartan a shealladh gu soilleir. (Faic an obair shònraichte aige an seo: https://www.facebook.com/people/Andys-Aerial-Archaeology-Photogrammetry-Site/100068170431509 )  Sgrìobh Williams mu fheartan nach eil rim faicinn tuilleadh, m.e. gun robh pàirt den ghàrradh mu 7m a dh’àirde bhon fho-chreag. An-diugh fhèin chithear an dealbh-iomaill chreagach gu furasda, is na gàrraidhean mu 4.5m air leud mar chuibheas.

Tha beachdan eadar-dhealaichte ann mu ghlainneachadh, a chithear ann an iomadh dùn-chnuic Albannach, a tha air abhrachadh nuair a leaghas eileamaidean anns na clachan, uaireannan le coltas glainne, agus mar sin ceanglaidh iad ri chèile.  Bhiodh fiodh air a chleachdadh gu farsaing san dùn, mar sin bidh cuid a’ creidsinn gur e tubaist no ionnsaigh is losgadh le naimhdean as coireach, ach leis gu bheil feum ann air teas uabhasach àrd agus leantainneach, ‘s dòcha cuideachd gur ann a dh’aon ghnothaich a rinneadh e gus an gàrradh a neartachadh – chan eil cinnt ann.  Ach chì thu iomadh clach fhathast le fianais glainneachaidh. (Faic: https://brigantesnation.com/how-to-vitrify-a-fort .)

Tha sgeulachdan gu leòr ann cuideachd mun chnoc, nam measg tè mu bhàs Fhinn MhicCumhail,  an seann ghaisgeach Ceilteach, tro fheall, air a h-innse le Hugh Miller is eile. Agus dh’fhàisnich Coinneach Odhar, Fiosaiche Bhrathainn (is a’ chlach dhraoidheil aige ann an Loch Ùsaidh), gun èireadh uisge an loch às an tobar air mullach a’ chnuic agus gun tuilicheadh e Srath Pheofhair – ma thuiteas Clach an Iolaire an treas turas.

Ach ma bhios tu air a’ chnoc dìreach airson cuairt agus nan seallaidhean àlainn, tha tuilleach ‘s gu leòr ann a thoilicheas an t-sùil, le flùraichean fiadhaich, seann ghiuthais-Albannach, agus tòrr eun, beag is mòr, nam measg na clamhanan-gobhlach à stèisean-beathachaidh Thollaidh faisg air làimh. Bha e tlachdmhor san t-sneachd cuideachd nuair a bha mi ann sa gheamhradh. Uairbha fiù ‘s chalet fiodha sgeadachail ann airson biadh beag a reic as t-samhradh dhan luchd-tadhail bhon spa, c. 1910 – 1960an – thoiribh picnic leibh fhèin a-nis! Dealbh dheth an seo: https://www.ambaile.org.uk/asset/33064/1/EN33064-the-chalet-knockfarrel-strathpeffer.htm/

Carson nach fheuch sibh e, mura robh sibh ann fhathast?

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I’ve written here in the past about Ben Wyvis and Fyrish, and this month I thought I’d look at another of my favourite local hills, Knockfarrel. It’s a very striking feature in the landscape seen from any angle , especially on the way from Dingwall to Strathpeffer, and is a short, fairly easy walk from its own wee carpark (approach from Loch Ussie), or longer, more challenging ones from Strathpeffer or via Cnoc Mòr and the Cat’s Back.  Have a look for the various routes on www.walkhighlands.co.uk.

It’s a long, steep ridge lying east to west, about 200m high, and has clear views in all directions – the Strathconon hills,  Ben Wyvis, down the Cromarty Firth to Nigg Hill, to Craig Padraig by Inverness, and south across Loch Ussie towards Moray and the Cairngorms. Dingwall is visible to the east, and Castle Leod and Strathpeffer to the west. As well as being scenic, this position clearly had strategic importance in the past, as there are the remains of a large vitrified Iron Age fort on the flattish top. You would certainly see enemies coming, and they’d have a hard time attacking the fort uphill as it’s so steep most of the way round.

The Gaelic name of the hill, Cnoc Fearralaidh (Farralaidh / Fearghalaidh), is likely to come from far-eileach, meaning high stone-place, no doubt a reference to the fort.

The fort has attracted archaeologists over the years, the earliest being engineer John Williams in the 1770s. His excavation trenches across the ramparts at three points are still prominent today, as can be seen in the aerial view by Andy Hickie (see his wonderful work here: https://www.facebook.com/people/Andys-Aerial-Archaeology-Photogrammetry-Site/100068170431509 ), enhanced to show the features more clearly. Williams’ written reports usefully describe features no longer visible, and help illustrate the vast dimensions of the fort’s ramparts – the walls were still much higher then, up to 7 meters from bedrock in one place. Even today the stony outline of the ramparts is easily seen, and the average width of the walls is 4.5 metres.

There are various theories about vitrification, seen in many Scottish hillforts – basically heating rock until certain elements in it (“flux”) begin to melt, fusing the stones together. Timber would have been widely used around the fort, so accidental or enemy fires are one idea. But vitrification needs intense, sustained heat, so might well be deliberate, e.g. to form a more stable wall. The jury is still out. But you can still see the signs of it in the remaining stones, all around the ramparts. More on this: https://brigantesnation.com/how-to-vitrify-a-fort

There are also legends surrounding the hill, including one about the death there by treachery of ancient Celtic hero Finn MacCumhaill, as told by Hugh Miller among others, and a prophesy by the Brahan Seer (whose magic stone allegedly lies in nearby Loch Ussie) about the water in the loch rising up in the well on the hill and one day flooding Strathpeffer and allowing ships to moor – if the Eagle Stone there falls down one last (third) time.

But if you’re just up there for a walk and the magnificent views, there’s more than enough to delight the eye, with wild flowers, ancient Scots pines, and lots of bird life, large and small – including red kites from nearby Tollie feeding station. It even had its charms in the snow when I was up there recently. And from 1910 to the 1960s there was even a decorative wooden chalet there, built to provide refreshments to spa guests who made it up there in the summer – take your own picnic now! Photo of the chalet here:   https://www.ambaile.org.uk/asset/33064/1/EN33064-the-chalet-knockfarrel-strathpeffer.htm/

 Why not give it a try, if you’ve never been?

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Northumberland: Bamburgh

Eadar an Nollaig agus a’ Bhliadhn’ Ùr bha cothrom agam beagan làithean a chur seachad còmhla ri caraid agus an dà chù aice ann an Northumberland. Tha, ‘s dòcha, 20 bliadhna bhon a bha mi san sgìre sin, ach a-mhàin san dol seachad, agus leis gun do chòrd i rium glan an turas mu dheireadh, bha mi a’ dèanamh fiughair ri a faicinn a-rithist. Agus chan e briseadh-dùil a bh’ ann idir – àite cho àlainn is eachdraidheil ‘s a bha e riamh. Chleachd sinn an ùine ghoirid gu math, le bhith a’ coiseachd air diofar thràighean leis na coin, agus a’ tadhal air seann chaistealean is eaglaisean (is dìreach pailteas dhiubhsan an sin).

Ach an-diugh bha mi airson innse dhuibh mun chaisteal as ainmeile an sin, Bamburgh. Chì thu bho fhada e às gach àird, na shuidhe gu pròiseil air a chreig bhasailt chais sna dùin-ghainmich, dìreach ri taobh na mara am meadhan achaidhean rèidh. Sealladh druidhteach!

Bha àitichean-tuinidh air a’ chreig agus timcheall oirre fad nam miltean de bhliadhnaichean, ach ’s ann leis na rìghrean Anglach is Sagsannach a thàinig na linntean a bu chudromaiche a’ chaisteil, is iad an sàs ann an sgaoileadh Crìostaidheachd (chaidh Naomh Aodhan a chur bho Eilean Ì san 7mh linn) agus anns an dìon an aghaidh nan Lochlannach – agus nan Cruithneach. Dh’fhàs an daighneach na bhu mhotha ‘s na bu treasa thar nan linntean, fo rìoghrachasan eile, ach mu dheireadh thall cha robh fiù ‘s na ballaichean tomadach cloiche sin làidir gu leòr agus ri àm Cogaidhean nan Ròsan bha Bamburgh na chiad chaisteal san tìr a chaidh a mhilleadh le cumhachd chanan.

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As dèidh sin cha deach Caisteal Bhamburgh fìor am feabhas buileach mar dhaighneach. San 18mh linn bha e na àite-fuirich Easbaig Dhurham, Lord Nathaniel Crewe, a thòisich càradh a’ chaisteil, obair a chùm Urras Lord Crewe a’ dol as a dhèidh tron 19mh linn. Bha an t-Urras cuideachd an sàs ann an ath-thogail a’ bhaile agus ann an stèidheachadh seòrsa “stàit shochairean” ionadail le ospadal, sgoil, bàta-teasairginn is eile. Ach air sgàth dhuilgheadasan ionmhasail a thàinig orra, cheannaich Lord Armstrong of Cragside an caisteal ‘s an oighreachd ann an 1894.

Agus ‘s ann fodhasan a dh’ùr-bheòthaich an caisteal, le obraichean-togail mòra agus leis an ath-chruthachadh gu bhith mar dhaighneach Mheadhan-Aoiseach a-rithist. Dh’fhuirich e fhèin ann gu tric, agus lìon e le àirneis sònraichte is ealain e. Sin an caisteal a chì thu an-diugh, agus is fìor fhiach a dhol ann – tha an togalach agus an suidheachadh (agus an sealladh) drùidhteach gu leòr iad fhèin, ach a bharrachd air sin, tha na seòmraichean diofraichte, bhon talla mhòr chun a’ chidsin, uabhasach intinneach is làn stuth tarraingeach, le mìneachaidhean soilleir ciallach annta.

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Ach faodaidh mi tadhal timcheall air àm na Nollaig a mholadh gu h-àraidh. Chan ann dìreach oir cha bhi e cho trang, ach ‘s ann gum bi iad a’ sgeadachadh nan seòmraichean a-rèir cuspair Nollaige (an turas seo The Twelve Days of Christmas), gu proifeasanta ‘s gu h-àlainn, cho cruthachail is mionaideach ‘s gur gann gun creidseadh tu e. Chòrd rium gu h-àraidh na breusan sgeadaichte gu h-ealanta. ‘S e Charlotte Lloyd-Webber, dealbhaiche-tèatair, a chruthaicheas e leis an sgioba aice, mar a nì i cuideachd aig Caisteal Howard, agus is fhiach fhaicinn – chan eil mi fhìn uabhasach measail air sgeadachadh mar as àbhaist, ach ‘s e rud gu tur a-mach às an àbhaist a bha seo, aig ìre àrd ealanta; chan e kitsch a th’ ann idir.  Bidh iad ga dhèanamh a-rithist san Dùbhlachd am bliadhna, a rèir coltais.

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Agus mura h-eil sin gu leòr, tha am baile fhèin snog, le cafaidhean is taigh-seinnse, agus eaglais eachdraidheil, agus tha an tràigh-ghainmhich ri taobh a’ chaisteal air leth brèagha, fada, farsaing, agus dìreach taghta do theaghlaich – agus do choin. Rùm gu leòr ann dhan a h-uile duine!

https://www.bamburghcastle.com/

Northumberland: Bamburgh

Between Christmas and New Year I had the chance of a few days away with a friend and her two dogs in Northumberland. It’s maybe 20 years since I was in that area, except for passing through, and I’d enjoyed it so much the last time that I was really looking forward to it. And I wasn’t disappointed – it’s as lovely and historic as ever. We fairly packed in the beach walks, castles and old churches (and there are plenty of all these) in the short time.

But in this article I want to concentrate on the most famous castle there – Bamburgh. You can see it from far away from every direction, perched proudly on its steep basalt crag in the dunes, right by the sea, amid flat farmland. An impressive sight!

There have been settlements on the crag and around it for thousands of years, but it was under the kings of the Angles and the Saxons that it had its most important centuries, being involved in the spread of Christianity (St Aiden was sent there from Iona in the 7th C) and the defence against the Vikings – and the Picts. The fortress grew larger and stronger over the centuries under other dynasties, but even these massive stone walls were not enough to stop it becoming the first castle in the country to fall to canon, during the Wars of the Roses.

After that Bamburgh Castle never really fully recovered as a military stronghold. In the 18th C it was the residence of the Bishop of Durham, Lord Nathaniel Crewe, who began to repair it, work which was continued after him by the Lord Crewe Trust through the 19th C. The Trust was also active in rebuilding the village, and it established a kind of local “welfare state” with hospital, school, lifeboat etc. But due to financial difficulties that befell them, Lord Armstrong of Cragside bought the castle and estate in 1894.

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It was under him that the castle saw a revival, with major building works and restoration back into a mediaeval fortress. He often stayed in the castle himself, and filled it with sumptuous furniture and art.  That’s the castle we see today, and it’s absolutely worth going to see it – the building and its location (and view) themselves are impressive enough, but also the different rooms inside,  from the great hall to the kitchen, are extremely interesting, full of fascinating objects, with clear, discreet explanations.

But I can especially recommend a visit around Christmas. Not just because it’s less busy, but also because they decorate the rooms with a Christmas theme (this year it was The Twelve Days of Christmas), professionally and beautifully; it’s so creative and detailed that it’s hard to believe. I particularly admired the beautiful, elaborate fireplace decoration. It’s the theatre-designer Charlotte Lloyd-Webber and her team who create it, as they also do at Castle Howard, and it’s really worth seeing – ordinarily I’m not very keen on decoration, but this was something altogether out of the ordinary, at a high level of artistry, no hint of kitsch. They’re doing it again this December, apparently.

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And if all that wasn’t enough, the village itself is lovely, with cafes and a pub, and a historic church, and there’s an exceptionally beautiful long, wide sandy beach right beside the castle, just perfect for families – and for dogs. Plenty of room there for everyone!

https://www.bamburghcastle.com/

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Bha sneachda na chuibhrig

Bha sneachda na chuibhrig air ìosal is àrd,

Am broinn an taigh-òsda na seòmraichean làn.

Bha Màiri is Eòsaph air toir àite-tàimh,

Am Betlehem fhuadain ‘s an uair ann mu thràth.

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Oh càit’ an robh fàsgadh bhon chas-shileadh fhuar

Dhan òigh a bha giùlan Fear-Saoraidh an t-sluaigh?

Ach threòraicheadh dìreach is cinnteach an ceum

Dhan fhàrdaich a b’ ìsle san tìr ud gu lèir.

O seall E na shìneadh gum riomhadh na chòir,

O seall air a Mhàthair ga thàladh le deòin,

‘S na h-ainglean a’ fàilteachadh pàisde na h-òigh!

Bidh ‘n oidhche seo àraid an cànan ‘s an ceòl.

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Bha ceòl air a’ ghaoith agus shoillsich an reul,

Mun cuairt air na cìobairean, ‘s shìn iad an ceum,

‘S an uamha nan ainmhidhean thairg iad an gaol,

Dhan naoidhean aig Màiri, Rìgh-pàisde chlann-daoin.

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The snow was a coverlet

The snow was a coverlet, on low and high ground,

Inside the guest-house the rooms were all full.

Mary and Joseph were seeking somewhere to stay,

Wandering in Bethlehem, and the hour already late.

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Oh where was there shelter from the cold driving rain

For the maid who was carrying the Saviour of man?

But their step was guided, straight and sure,

To the lowliest lodgings in all that land.

Oh behold Him stretched out with no finery near,

Oh behold His Mother cradling him gladly,

And the angels welcoming the virgin’s child!

This night will be renowned in song and music.

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There was music on the wind and the star shone down

Around the shepherds setting out on their way;

And in the animals’ den they offered their love

To Mary’s infant, the Child-king of mankind.

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Faclan le Dòmhnall Iain Dòmhnallach, ceòl le Iseabail T. NicDhòmhnaill.

Words by Donald John Macdonald, music by Ishabel T. MacDonald.

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Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Nollaig Chridheil agus Bliadhna Mhath Ùr!

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Èist / Listen:

Jennifer Licko Band   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxUQwJtmHeo

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Marit Falt and Rona Wilkie:https://maritandrona.bandcamp.com/track/bha-sneachda-na-chuibhrig

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Hydro Ness

Seachdain no dhà air ais, bha cothrom agam rudeigin ann an Inbhir Nis fhaicinn ris an robh mi air fiughair a dhèanamh fad mhiosan – meanbh-sgeama haidro “Hydro Ness”. Cho luath ‘s a thòisich an sgeama air obrachadh, tràth san t-samhradh am bliadhna, bhuannaich e iomadh duais, m.e. aig Duaisean Cumhachd Ath-nuadhachail na Gàidhealtachd is nan Eilean, mar phròiseact ath-nuadhachail as fheàrr air tìr, agus Pròiseact Beag den Bhliadhna (British Construction Industry).  Bhiodh sin drùidhteach gu leòr gun dad eile, ach leis gu bheil an sgeama dìreach air Abhainn Nis, chan ann sna beanntan mar a b’ àbhaist, mar gum biodh anns a’ bhaile fhèin, agus ann an togalach beag fìor tharraingeach (chunnaic mi dealbhan brèagha dheth), bha mi air bhioran fhaicinn mu dheireadh thall.

Tha an sgeama suidhichte air bruach na h-aibhne aig ceann thall Pàirc a’ Chonaisg ri taobh Drochaid Muilleann an Tuilm, àite nàdarrach brèagha. Ged a tha an sgeama fhèin gu tur ùr, tha dà cheangal aige dhan àm a dh’fhalbh. An toiseach, tha e a’ cleachdadh pàirt den bhun-structar a chaidh steidheachadh airson sgeama beag haidro eile sna 1920an. Chaidh an t-aonamh sgeama-haidro deug ann am Breatainn a thogail faisg air seo le bhith a’ leudachadh seann lad Muileann-flùir a’ Bhucht https://www.ambaile.org.uk/asset/11482/ , a’ tarraing uisge às an abhainn ann an seòrsa cùrsa-uisge àrdaichte. Ruith e fad deicheadan gus an deach Inbhir Nis air a’ Ghriod Nàiseanta. Tha am “Powerhouse” ri fhaicinn an-diugh fhathast – sin far a bheil bùth uachdair-reòite as t-samhradh. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6040546

 Agus ‘s e seo an aon lad – air a ghlanadh ‘s a chur an òrdugh a-rithist – a bhios Hydro Ness a’ cleachdadh an-diugh fhèin. Ath-chuairteachadh gu dearbh!

An lad: https://www.flickr.com/photos/conner395/8012801239

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Agus an ceangal eile do dh’eachdraidh? Uill, ‘s e rud fada nas sine a th’ anns an fhear seo: tha an dealan ann an Hydro Ness ga dheànamh le sgriubha Archimedes. Sin inneal à linntean àrsaidh, ann an cruth sgriubha mhòir, a tha ag obrachadh air prionnsabal simplidh gus uisge a ghluasad gu eifeachdach agus gun cus saothair (mar as àbhaist do dh’ìre nas àirde). Tha Hydro Ness a’ cleachadh cumhachd uisge na h-aibhne san lad gus an sgriubha a dhràibheadh, coltach ris an t-seann roth-muilinn, agus mar sin còrr is 500,000 kWh de dhealan ath-nuadhachail a chruthachadh gach bliadhna. https://akvopedia.org/wiki/Archimedes_screw

Tha an dealan ga chleachdadh gus cumhachd a sholarachadh do dh’Ionad-Spòrs Inbhir Nis faisg air làimh – 50% den fheumalachd aca. Nuair a smaoinicheas sinn air an dà amar-snàmh mòra aca, agus na goireasan uile eile, aithnichidh sinn gur e caomhnadh gu math mòr a th’ ann, gu h-àraidh le cosgaisean cumhachd a’ sìor dhol an àird a-nis.

Aig an aon àm, ‘s e eisimplir a th’ ann an Hydro Ness – chì sinn dè cho feumail ‘s as urrainn do sgeamaichean beaga, ath-nuadhachail mar seo a bhith dha na sgìrean far a bheil iad, le cumhachd ionadail, gun fheum air pròiseactan einnseinnearachd mòra, daora, agus gun ar lorg carboin a mheudachadh.

Ach tha aon taobh eile aig an sgeama seo – tha e cuideachd airson luchd-tadhail (inbhich is clann-sgoile) a tharraing a-steach is am foghlam a thaobh chuspairean mar àrainneachd is eag-eòlas, obair còmhla ri nàdar, lìontan-bìdh is eag-shiostaman, brosnachadh bith-iomadachd, ath-nuadhachadh na Gàidhealtachd tro lùth uaine, amsaa. Air an adhbhar sin tha an togalach fhèin, slige shimplidh gus dìon a thoirt dhan inneal agus dhan luchd-tadhail, sònraichte tlachdmhor grinn. Tha e ann an cruth armadillo le pleitean meatailt airgeadach, leth-fhosgailte do sholas is do ghaoith. Glacaidh e an t-sùil nuair a dhlùthaicheas tu ris, air cois no air rothair, no ma bhios tu a dràibheadh thairis air an drochaid ri a thaobh. Tha sanasan fiosrachail ann – ma bhios tu airson an leughadh idir – le grafaigean tarraingeach is soilleir (le beagan Gàidhlig orra), anns an t-slige fhèin agus timcheall oirre, air an cruthachadh leis a’ companaidh Mather & Co, agus flùraichean is beingean àlainn à clach gheal. 

Àite sìtheil, brèagha, inntinneach. Carson nach toir sibh fhèin sùil air?

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Hydro Ness

A couple of weeks ago I had the chance to see something in Inverness that I’ve been looking forward to for months – the micro-hydro-electric scheme Hydro Ness. As soon as the scheme was up and running, in early summer this year, it was winning awards, such as the Scottish Highlands & Islands Renewable Energy Award for Best Onshore Renewable Energy Project 2022, and the Best Small Project of the Year 2022 at the British Construction Industry Awards. That would be impressive enough on its own, but with the scheme being directly on the River Ness, not in the mountains as these schemes usually are, but more or less in the town itself, and in a fascinating wee building (I’d seen lovely pictures of it), I couldn’t wait to see it at last.

The scheme is located on the river-bank at the far end of Whin Park, beside the Holm Bridge, a beautiful green spot. Although the scheme is completely new itself, it has two connections to the past. First, it uses part of the infrastructure that was developed for an earlier small-scale hydro project in the 1920s. The 11^th hydro-electric station in Britain was built near here using the widened mill-lade of the old Bught Meal Mill https://www.ambaile.org.uk/asset/11482/ , drawing water from the river in a kind of raised watercourse. It ran for several decades until Inverness was connected to the National Grid. Its “Powerhouse” can still be seen today – it houses the ice-cream parlour in the summer. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6040546

And this is the same lade – cleaned and brought back into working order, which Hydro Ness is using today. How’s that for re-cycling! The lade: https://www.flickr.com/photos/conner395/8012801239

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And the second link to history? Well, that one goes back a lot further: the electricity produced by Hydro Ness is generated using the Archimedes screw. That’s a device from ancient times in the form of a large screw, which works on a simple principle to move water efficiently and with minimal effort (usually up a level). Hydro Ness uses the power of the river flow in the lade to drive the screw, a bit like the old mill-wheel, which then powers the generator to create more than 500,000 kWh of renewable electricity per year. https://akvopedia.org/wiki/Archimedes_screw

The electricity supplies half the power needed to run the nearby Inverness Leisure Centre, and when you think about the two large swimming pools and all the other facilities there, you realise that represents quite a sizeable saving, especially with fuel costs rising by the minute.

At the same time Hydro Ness acts as an example – we can see just how useful such small-scale renewable schemes can be to the areas where they are, with local power and without the need for large-scale expensive engineering works, and also without increasing our carbon footprint.

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But there’s another aspect to this scheme. Hydro Ness also aims to attract and educate visitors (adults and schoolchildren alike) on subjects like environment and ecology, working alongside nature, food-chains and eco-systems, encouraging biodiversity, renewing the Highlands through green energy, and so on. For that reason the building itself – a simple shell to protect the generator and the visitors – is startlingly attractive and elegant. It’s in the shape of an armadillo with silvery metal plates, half-open to light and wind. It catches the eye as you approach it, on foot or by bicycle, or when driving across the bridge beside it. There are informative signs – if indeed you want to read them – with clear, attractive graphics (and a bit of Gaelic), in the shell and around the location, as well as flowers and elegant white stone benches.

It’s a beautiful, peaceful, interesting place – why don’t you go and have a look for yourself?

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Barrachd fiosrachaidh / further information:

https://www.highland.gov.uk/info/1210/environment/971/hydro_ness

Na ceanglaichean / the links:

Bught Meal Mill: https://www.ambaile.org.uk/asset/11482/  

The Powerhouse (1929): https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6040546

The lade: https://www.flickr.com/photos/conner395/8012801239

Archimedes screw: https://akvopedia.org/wiki/Archimedes_screw

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Pearù 3: An Gleann Naomh agus na h-Incas

Am mìos sa chaidh bha mi a‘ coimhead air àitichean eachdraidheil anns na h-Andes a Tuath – tha am pìos mu dheireadh seo mu làraichean tarraingeach a’ Ghlinn Naoimh sna h-Andes an ear air Lima. Bha mi toilichte gun do thadhail mi air Peàru a Tuath an toiseach, leis gur ann an sin far am faic thu mòran de na làraichean cultarach ro-Inca, agus tuigidh thu nach do thòisich na h-Incas le canabhas glan – thog iad air muin coileanasan nan linntean romhpa – na Moche, na Chimu, na Chachapoyas is eile. Mar sin bha rathaidean is slighean-malairt ann mar-thà, agus dùin àrda ana-mhòr, uaighean is lùchairtean sòghail. Bha mèinnearachd, uisgeachadh, àiteachas agus cleachdadh farsaing na h-àrainneachd air fàs àbhaisteach, agus bha sgilean obair-mheatailt agus obair-criadha fìor adhartach. An rud a rinn na h-Incas, ‘s ann gun do leasaich iad na cleachdaidhean, sgilean is teicneòlais seo, a bha ann mar-thà, gu ìre iongantach ann an ùine gu math goirid – mu na 100 bliadhna ro cheannsachadh nan Spàinnteach (1563-72), agus gun do chleachd iad iad gus na treubhan eadar-dhealaichte a cho-aonachadh ann an aon ìmpireachd. Faodaidh sinn coimeas a dhèanamh ri leasachadh luath an teicneòlais agus a’ chruinneachais a chunnaic sinn san t-saoghal againne o chionn an Darna Cogaidh.

Thagh na h-Incas Cusco (3,400m), ann an sràth torrach sna h-Andes, mar phrìomh bhaile an rìoghachd, agus shìn rathaidean a-mach bhuaithe mar lìon an damhan-allaidh air feadh a’ phàirt mhòir seo de dh’Ameireaga a Deas. Cuimhnich nach robh eich aca, no buill-acfhainn iarainn, no a’ chuibhle. Cha bhiodh cuibhlean uabhasach feumail sna beanntan no san fhàsach ghainmhich co-dhiù – chleachd iad ruitheadairean airson conaltraidh, llamas airson bathar a ghiùlan, agus neart nan daoine airson togail. Tha e coltach nach robh sgrìobhadh aca, ach chùm iad clàran le bhith a’ cleachdadh siostam shreangan snaidhmte, quipu – buan agus furasta a ghiùlan.

B’ e Luis, an neach-iùil ionadail as fheàrr ‘s a ghabhas dhomhsa, a bha agam airson a’ Ghlinn Naoimh – e fhèin fear de shliochd Inca, aig a bheil an cànan Quechua, le eòlas iongantach air lusan agus an cleachdaidhean, agus tàlant eachdraidh a thoirt beò dhut agus coileanais na h-Incas a mhìneachadh gu soilleir. Mar neach-iùil mi fhìn, dhruidh sin orm agus fhuair mi mòr-bhuannachd às. Thadhail sinn air aon làrach air an raonach àrd aig Moray (3,500m) a bha na “lab” phrobhail àiteachais, far an do dh’ath-chrùthaich iad sònaichean-clìomaid dealbhag le bhith a‘ cleachdadh barraidean is uisgeachadh, gus na seòrsichean gràin, buntàta is eile fhaighinn a-mach a dh’fhàsadh a b’ fheàrr anns gach sòn. Chaidh sinn cuideachd do chlaisean-tèachd salainn Inca aig Maras, a bhios gan cleachdadh gus an latha an-diugh, leis na h-aon dòighean-obrach.

Ach ‘s e na togalaich-chloiche an ìomhaigh as ainmeile de na h-Incas, agus chunnaic sinn eisimpleirean druidteach gu leòr. B’ e Ollantaytambo (c. 3,000m) – dùn, teampull is ceumannan, a’ chiad cothrom a bha agam na blocaichean ana-mhòr rèidh fhaicinn, air an cur ri chèile gun bheàrnan faicsinneach idir eatarra. Dh’ionnsaich mi gun robh iad air an chumail ri chèile le siostam cnag-is-socaid nam broinn, mar Lego, agus cho-fhreagair iad cho dlùth air sgàth mheasaidhean mionaideach agus le bhith a’ cleachdadh mhodailean ro làimh. Chleachd iad rampaichean, geamhleagan agus sgiobachd gus an socadh a-steach dhan àite cheart.  Chunnaic sinn barraidean a-rithist gus àiteachas tairbheach a dhèanamh comasach sna beanntan, cuideachd aig an làrach Inca faisg air sin, Pisaq, far a bheil margaid glè mhòr ann fhathast. Tha sràth torrach na h-aibhne Urubamba gu tur fo àiteachas gus an latha an-diugh. Shiubhail mi tron t-sràth thaitneach air an trèana-turasachd Vistadome.

Bha e ri fhaicinn sa bhad gun robh fada barrachd de luchd-turais an seo na bha ann an ceann a tuath na dùthcha – nàdar de sheoc a bha sin, ach bha fios agam roimhe gum biodh Machu Picchu co-dhiù glè thrang, agus abair gun robh. Tha baile Machu Picchu fhèin, ged a tha e ann an suidheachadh brèagha air abhainn ann an gleann cumhang, dìreach coisrigte do thurasachd. Bha na h-àireamhean a bha ceadaichte san làrach eachdraidheil cuingichte air sgàth Covid ach bha buidhnean gu leòr ann fhathast. Bha mi toilichte gun robh neach-iùil agam fhìn agus a bhith nas sùbailte mar sin.

Bidh bus gad tar-aiseag dhan làrach agus às dèidh sin bidh thu a’ coiseachd  agus a’ dìreadh – tha ceumannan gun chrìoch ann. Dhìrich mise pìos air ais suas air an t-Slighe Inca gus an sealladh ainmeil thairis air an làrach gu lèir fhaighinn. Tha tobhtaichean susbainteach air fhàgail den lùchairt rìoghail samhraidh (mas fhìor), de thogalaich chràbhach is chathaireach, àitichean-còmhnaidh is taighean-stòir, a h-uile rud na shuidhe ann an seòrsa nead creagach, aig 2,500m, air a chuairteachadh le sgurran dramataigeach – seallaidhean neo-chreidsinneach anns gach àird. Bha mi air fèitheamh fad mo bheatha gus seo fhaicinn agus chan e briseadh-dùil a bh’ ann idir. Is coltach gun deach an làrach a threigsinn seach ionnsaigh air a bhith oirre, agus leis nach robh eòlas oirre san t-saoghal nas fharsainge gus a’ chiad turas le Hiram Bingham ann an 1911, tha i air a gleidheadh cuimseach math.

Tha tèoraidh ann gun do thog na h-Incas far an robh fios aca mu shuidheachaidhean geòlasach sònraichte, mar sgoltaidhean domhain, a cheadaich tochladh na creige gu furasta ann an sliseagan feumail, dìreach aig an làrach togail, gun fheum air an uiread de ghearradh no de chòmhdhail – cha chuireadh sin iongnadh orm. Tha na taighean-tasgaidh fiosrachail ann an Cusco sgoinneil (mar a tha ann an Lima cuideachd), agus ‘s e baile brèagha eachdraidheil a th’ ann e fhèin, le fianais de gach linn aige. Tha fiù ‘s dùn ana-mhòr Inca aige os cionn a’ bhaile, Sacsayhuaman, a-rithist le blocaichean tomadach air an cur ri chèile gu foirfe.

B’ urrainn dhomh fada, fada a bharrachd a sgrìobhadh mu Phearù àlainn eachraidheil, ach tha mi a’ creidsinn gu bheil dealbh math gu leòr agaibh a-nis. Air a mholadh gu mòr!

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Peru 3: The Sacred Valley and the Incas

Last month I looked at the historic sites of the Northern Andes – this final piece is about the stunning remains in the Sacred Valley and area, in the Andes east of Lima. I was glad I’d visited the north first, as that’s where many of the pre-Incan cultural sites can be seen, and you realise the Incas didn’t start from scratch – they built on the achievements of the past – the Moche, the Chimu, the Chachapoyas and others. There were already roads and trade routes, massive hilltop fortresses, and sumptuous tombs and palaces. Mining, irrigation, agriculture and general management of the environment were already the norm. Metalwork and ceramic skills were advanced. What the Incas did was to develop these existing practices, skills and techniques to an astonishing extent in a relatively short period – the last 100 years or so before the Spanish conquest of 1532-72, and use them to unify the various Peruvian tribal areas into one cohesive empire. We might compare it to the rapid development of technology and the globalisation that we ourselves have seen since World War ll.

The Incas chose Cusco (3,400m), in a fertile valley in the Andes, as the centre of their domain, and roads reached out from it like a spider’s web throughout that huge part of South America. Remember they had no horses, no iron tools (just bronze), and no wheel. Wheels would not have been that useful in mountainous or sandy terrain anyway – they used runners for communication, llamas to move goods, and man-power for building. It seems they didn’t use writing, but detailed records were kept via a system of elaborately knotted strings, quipu – durable and easy to transport.

I had the best possible local guide for the Sacred Valley area, Luis – himself a Quechua-speaking descendant of the Incas with a vast knowledge of plants and their uses, and a gift for making history come alive, and making the Incas’ achievements clear and comprehensible. As a fellow tour-guide, I was very impressed and made the most of his knowledge. One site he took me to was the experimental Inca farm “lab” up on the high plains at Moray (3,500m), where different climate zones were recreated in miniature via terracing and water management, to test what kinds of grain, potato etc grew best in each. We also visited Inca-period salt-pans at Maras (3,200m), still producing today using the same methods.

But what is most associated with the Incas is their stone buildings, and we saw some wonderful examples. The first site was Ollantaytambo fortress, temple and steps (c.3,000m), my first chance to see the famous huge, smooth blocks of stone built together with no visible gaps. I learned that they were held together by an internal spur-and-socket system, like Lego blocks, and fitted so well due to careful advance measurement and the use of precise models. They used ramps and levers and man-power to move them into place. We also again saw terracing used for optimal farming in the mountains, also at the nearby Pisaq site, which still has a huge market. The valley floor, along the Urubamba River, is still fully farmed. I travelled along part of it in the scenic Vistadome train.

There were noticeably far more tourists down here than in the north, which came as a bit of a shock, but I had known that Machu Picchu would be the busiest, and it was. The village below is extremely touristy, though still pretty, set on a small river in the steep valley. Visitor numbers to the ruins were limited due to Covid, but there were still plenty of groups going around. I was pleased to have my own guide and more flexibility.

A bus takes you up to the site, then you walk and climb – I climbed back up a bit along the Inca Trail to get the classic view from the top. There are substantial remains of the (probable) royal summer palace, religious and civic buildings, houses and storehouses, sitting in a kind of high rocky nest at 2,500m ringed by spectacular peaks – breath-taking views all round. I had waited all my life to see this, and I was certainly not disappointed. The site seems to have been abandoned, not attacked, and was unknown to the wider world until Hiram Bingham’s first expedition in 1911, hence its fairly good preservation.

A recent theory is that the Incas knew to build where there were certain geological conditions, e.g. deep faults and fissures, that allowed rock to be quarried easily at the building site in usable slices, reducing the transport and the cutting required – it would not surprise me.  The informative museums in Cusco are wonderful (as they are in Lima too), and it’s a beautiful historic city in its own right, with remains from all periods. It even has a massive Inca fortress above the town, Sacsayhuaman, with impressive walls made again of huge, perfectly fitting blocks.

I could write much, much more about historic, beautiful Peru, but I think you’ll have got a good impression by now. Highly recommended!

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